By Lena Beck for Modern Farmer.
Broadcast version by Eric Tegethoff for Washington News Service reporting for the Modern Farmer-Public News Service Collaboration.

Walking through the fields of Viva Farms in Washington State's Skagit Valley, the smell of strawberries is strong in the air. The rain that came down hard the week earlier spells the end of strawberry season, says farmer Francisco Farias, but he still has raspberries, one of his favorite crops to grow.

Farias explains all this in Spanish, while Viva Farms farm viability director Anna Chotzen translates.

Farias has farmed a parcel of land here at Viva Farms since 2017-as do dozens of other farmers. Viva Farms is a farm business incubator and training program. It educates beginning farmers on sustainable practices, and provides them with land to start their business. Farias completed the program in 2016, and together with his brothers started Farias Farm in 2017.

In recent years, Viva Farms realized it needed to expand its land access work to help more mature businesses launch beyond Viva Farms. Not only is land access a critical barrier to new farmers, it's also something that has been exacerbated by patterns of discrimination by the USDA and agricultural lenders. Access to land is an even higher barrier for communities that are statistically underserved or denied loans.

"We see that the system is not working for farmers, and we're really committed to pushing the envelope so that it can [work]," says Chotzen.

Farias, who now operates his farm in partnership with his wife, wanted to pursue this goal as well. And this summer, that dream became a reality.

Working with Viva Farms and Dirt Capital Partners, an agricultural investment company, Farias now has locked in a financing deal that puts him on track to own a parcel of land a few miles away from Viva Farms, within just a few years. He has a 10-year lease and is hoping and planning to purchase it sooner than that.

"It's always been a dream and a goal of ours to find a place that we could really grow our business, and that can be a stable place where we know we can stay," says Farias.

Incubating a dream

Farias grew up farming in Mexico, and worked for a short time on a conventional farm there. When he came to the US in 1996, he worked for an organic farm in Washington state.

When he connected with Viva Farms and began its Practicum in Sustainable Agriculture, it gave him the tools to start his own business.

After his brothers completed the practicum as well, the three of them began farming together on land from Viva Farms. Farias Farm grows broccoli, cauliflower, strawberries, blueberries, carrots, and other vegetables, all organic.

"In organic production, I feel free," says Farias. "I can just be out in the field and know that everything is really healthy. I have kids, and they can come out and they can eat food off the farm, and I don't have any worries."

As they grew, they had success. They established themselves at regional farmers markets, and sold produce through Viva Farms. Farias's brothers left to pursue other careers, and his wife Lorena joined him as co-owner. They expanded from just half an acre to having 10 acres at Viva Farms and 10 acres on a nearby piece of land.

And then that nearby land went up for sale.

The final piece

The number of farms in the US decreased by 6.9 percent between 2017 and 2022, according to US Census of Agriculture Data. Washington State sees this pattern mirrored in agricultural areas such as the Skagit Valley-the state lost 3,717 farms between 2017 and 2022.

This speaks to the trend of consolidation-a rapid squeeze on small farmers across the country that shows no signs of letting up. While established farmers get forced out, new farmers struggle to take their place due to a smattering of high barriers, principle among them access to land.

Viva Farms has been operating since 2009, and provides new farmers with the tools to incubate their farm business, including capital, marketing, bilingual education, and more. One of the most important things it provides is land: Viva Farms operates more than 100 acres, and members of its incubator program can access certified organic parcels to farm.

But Viva Farms' land is not intended to be the forever home for any of the farms it incubates. "In recent years, it's become really clear that for us to be committed to farmers' success, we have to help them with this final piece," says Chotzen. "It sounds nice on paper to just say you build your business for a few years at Viva and then launch off-site, but the reality of finding a long-term home for your farm is much more challenging."

Land ownership provides individual farmers with stability and security-it gives them more freedom to make decisions about their operations and to plan long-term. Broadly, a system of diversified farms is more resilient to pests and climate shocks than monoculture operations.

And so Viva Farms worked with Farias and Dirt Capital Partners to set up terms that could result in a pathway to ownership for Farias. The model they used allows farmers to get a secure lease, with the option to purchase at a later date. This permits them to get on land right away without the requirement of an immediate down payment, and with a 10-year runway to figure out their financing.

It's a good first step, says Chotzen, and she believes it is replicable for other investment firms. Dirt Capital Partners is a leader in the space among venture capital and impact investment firms, she says, and she hopes the process evolves to further reduce interest rates and the final amount farmers owe.

"I just think that if we as the farmer support community, whether that's us at Viva or the finance space, if we really want to support the farmers who've been historically excluded, and build the food system we want using the ecological practices that we all think are essential, we have to be willing to be flexible on what we are expecting in terms of financial return," says Chotzen. "The risk can't land with the farmer all the time."

In the last two years, Viva Farms has received $6 million from the USDA to support this work. More regulatory mandates to fund this work would help, such as in the Farm Bill.

A farm stand

Having his own place to farm opens up new opportunities for Farias, and makes space for new goals. Washingtonians can find Farias Farm at regional farmers markets; he hopes to open a farm stand on the property next year. He's doing other future planning, too: He hopes to build his own cooler, so they don't have to depend on Viva Farms' refrigeration capacity anymore. There's also a house on the land they will own, and they'll be moving in soon, so they can live where they farm.

Walking back to the parking lot from the fields, Farias talks about getting to plant more blueberries now. When you rent land, you have to think short-term. Season to season. Broccoli, carrots, and other things that don't require multi-year tending. But now that he has his own land, he has the stability of getting to plan for the future.

"There are a lot of opportunities, and I'm hoping to achieve them," says Farias. "Just being able to plan for the long term is a big one."


Lena Beck wrote this article for Modern Farmer.


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New Mexico may never be a leader in aquaculture but some fish farmers are finding success in the arid state.

Rossana Sallenave, professor and extension aquatic ecology specialist at New Mexico State University, said the U.S. is among the top five consumers of fish and shellfish. She believes aquaponics, used to raise large quantities of fish and plants in relatively small volumes of water, is highly suited to promoting sustainable agriculture.

"I think the future here in New Mexico is recirculating systems," Sallenave explained. "Because we are running out of water and that's the area of aquaculture that is really gaining some traction here in New Mexico, particularly aquaponics."

Sallenave pointed out New Mexico's unique environmental and biological resources include 15 billion acre-feet of saline water. She noted it cannot be used for traditional agriculture or for drinking water but could be used for aquaculture. Global demand for seafood is projected to increase by 70% in the next 30 years and experts believe a dramatic increase in aquaculture could help supply food needs.

According to Sallenave, aquaculture, like most farming enterprises, is highly risky because many variables must be controlled over a long period to produce a marketable crop. If control is not maintained, a crop can be lost, resulting in substantial financial losses. But she emphasized it can be a viable enterprise for those willing to educate themselves, keep abreast of new technologies and apply what others have learned. And compared to traditional agriculture, aquaponics requires significantly less fresh water.

"You can grow protein and you can grow plants in a small recirculating system which needs very little water," Sallenave outlined. "Just topping off a little bit weekly to replace evaporative losses."

Sallenave added the site selected for an aquaculture enterprise, which must meet the biological criteria for the species proposed, has a significant effect on an operation's viability. One New Mexico success story is AmeriCulture near Animas, which started producing Nile tilapia commercially more than a decade ago using geothermally heated greenhouses in pure well water from a desert aquifer.


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A bill in the Idaho Legislature would lower restrictions for allowing chickens in residential areas.

The impetus for the legislation from Sen. Tammy Nichols, R-Middleton, is in part high prices and the shortage of eggs at the grocery store. Senate Bill 1026 would ensure that homeowners associations could not bar residents from raising up to four chickens per one-fifth of an acre.

"Most people eat more than four chickens a year," said Ariel Agenbroad, who focuses on food systems and small farms at the University of Idaho Extension, "but for egg laying, if a chicken is laying an egg every other day, that can be a significant number of eggs that can be used by that family or that household."

While raising chickens could offset egg costs in the long run, Agenbroad notes there can be substantial upfront costs to the birds. Critics of the bill have said the chickens could potentially disrupt neighbors. Other concerns include noise, odor and the spread of diseases such as salmonella, to name a few. The legislation has passed out of the Senate and moved on to the House.

Agenbroad said people aren't going to get rich raising a small number of chickens in their backyards.

"Policies like this can have a really positive impact on people's ability to be self-sustaining," she said, "but I don't see it having a lot of impact on small business, like entrepreneurship or our farm business development, because the numbers are so small."

Agenbroad said it could pique someone's interest in farming, however. And beyond their value as farm animals, she said as a former chicken owner herself, the entertainment value alone is worth it.


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In Pennsylvania, a nonprofit striving to secure the future of small dairy farms is hoping its federal funding won't be frozen much longer.

Agriculture drives the state's $83 billion economy, with more than 50,000 farms. The Dairy Grazing Alliance includes an apprenticeship program to connect mentors and apprentices across 16 states. It supports dairy farmers using managed grazing to restore land, produce quality milk and stay profitable.

Jessica Matthews, apprenticeship manager for the alliance, said Pennsylvania currently has nine apprentices and 12 mentors.

"I read a statistic that we've lost 95% of small dairy farms since the '70s," Matthews noted. "The Dairy Grazing Apprenticeship was originally formed to train the next generation of dairy farmers, because small farm owners were retiring without an identified successor."

Matthews said the program runs on 98% federal grant funding, with some climate-smart funds potentially tied to the Inflation Reduction Act. The money is on hold as they await guidance from the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Sustainable Ag Coalition, and producer payments have been paused until further notice.

The Trump administration tariffs on goods from China and Mexico are also expected to have an effect on farming in the state. Matthews pointed out one reason dairy farming is an expensive part of the ag industry in Pennsylvania is farmers are buying their supplies at market cost.

"Everything from Ajax for the milk house to iodine for teat dips, to vaccinations, all of that is bought at market costs at the farm," Matthews stressed. "They're making milk, and the milk is being sold at a wholesale cost per hundredweight."

She underscored it is hard to balance the high expenses with what farmers make from the milk when selling to a co-op. She added most milk stays in the country but higher tariffs on imported production supplies will raise farmers' input costs, even as their output remains the same.


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