Nadia Ramlagan, Producer
Tuesday, December 24, 2024
By Jessica Scott-Reid for Sentient.
Broadcast version by Nadia Ramlagan for Arkansas News Service reporting for the Sentient-Public News Service Collaboration
The all-natural beauty world has a new darling. In an effort to turn away from “toxic” cleansers and “chemical-filled” moisturizers, some celebrities and content creators are now touting the wonders of a new and unlikely skincare product. It’s beef tallow, also known as rendered cow fat.
But what does slathering cow fat on your skin really do? And is it worth the cost to the environment and animals? Unfortunately, this seemingly natural and wholesome skincare solution is just another facet of factory farming. And on top of that, it isn’t particularly effective as skincare.
What Beef Tallow Is and Why It’s Marketed As Wholesome
For centuries, people have rendered fat from animals for a variety of uses, from cooking to making candles to skincare, like balms and soaps. Beef tallow is simply rendered beef fat, made by cooking down cow fat slowly into a liquid. Tallow’s first use dates all the way back to the Bronze Age.
Today, tallow promoters often reference its long history, associating the product with traditional farming methods. Some tallow products are also marketed as ethical or sustainable. But as Pamela Vesilind, associate professor of law at Vermont Law, explains to Sentient, “‘sustainable’ and ‘ethical’ remain [legally] unregulated terms” in the United States. Practically speaking, she adds, the term “ethical” in advertising “is so subjective it is meaningless.”
The tactic of marketing tallow as wholesome and natural is presented in contrast to other products made in labs. It’s a rhetorical strategy you might recognize, also used to market “natural” animal meat in opposition to “processed” plant-based alternatives. This tactic can be traced back to the meat industry, and conveniently ignores the fact that animal products, whether meat or skincare, must also go through substantial (and grisly) processing in order to become usable.
How Beef Tallow Is Made
Many tallow skin products today are labeled and marketed as “grass-fed,” or “handmade in small batches.” Some tallow producers promote, and even label, their products as specifically “not vegan” — in some cases as part of the broader “trad wife” and/or homesteading trend. While some tallow beauty products sold online may originate from a maker’s own cows, this is not the norm across the market. After all, 99 percent of livestock farmed in the U.S. are raised on factory farms.
Beef tallow is made from parts of the cow that are not sold as meat, and are transported instead to rendering plants. It’s made by melting the fat to separate it from impurities, proteins or water. As a result, tallow is often touted as an eco-friendly byproduct of the meat industry.
In reality, however, sales of rendered animal fat actually bolster the meat industry, which is anything but eco-friendly.
The U.S. market for rendering and meat byproduct processing is worth $7.3 billion. Not only does the sale of the rendered fat bring in additional revenue, it also cuts the additional costs of having to otherwise safely dispose of the leftover fat as biowaste. In other words, the rendering industry props up the business of factory farming.
To dispel the wholesome tallow myth even further: nearly 95 percent of the U.S. rendering market is collectively controlled by two massive corporations, Tyson Foods and Darling Ingredients. Tyson claims to control 20 percent of meat production in the U.S., with 38 percent of revenue derived from beef production. An investigation by the Guardian earlier this year also found that Tyson Foods’ slaughterhouses dumped 371 million pounds of pollutants into U.S. waterways between 2018 and 2022.
Beef production is one of the worst types of farming for the planet, thanks to methane-spewing cow burps, and massive land use for pasture and feed crops. In this way, buying tallow from factory-farmed cows contributes to environmental degradation, just like buying factory-farmed beef to eat does.
Does Beef Tallow Skincare Even Work?
On top of tallow’s connection to factory farming, it turns out that the benefits of slathering cow fat on your skin are largely unremarkable.
Beef tallow skincare is more fad than fact, Desiree Stordahl, director of applied research and education at research-based skincare brand Paula’s Choice, told Elle magazine. “While it’s true that beef tallow contains some antioxidants and omega fatty acids that could have potential benefits for skin, there are much better ways to get those kinds of ingredients that were developed and tested specifically for skin.”
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Raja Sivamani agrees. He tells Sentient that while tallow does have some vitamin A, which contains retinol, the amount of retinol is not standardized, and is not likely to be as concentrated as it is in conventional products.
Standard retinol has far more evidence to back it up than tallow. In one of many studies, for example, a clinical trial of women between 40 and 55 years old who applied retinol every day for a year found it reduced the appearance of crow’s feet by 44 percent and skin discoloration by 84 percent.
While tallow’s high saturated fat content may work with some skin types, for issues such as acne, Sivamani says, “it could make it worse. It’s not one size fits all.”
Cruelty-Free Alternatives to Beef Tallow
According to Sivamani, the skincare industry is now “overwhelmingly moving toward cruelty-free” products. Consumers are demanding it, and “there is a huge push for vegan products.” There are many vegan alternatives to tallow-based moisturizers, even for consumers seeking natural, one-ingredient products. Sivamani suggests cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil, virgin olive oil, coconut oil and jojoba oil. And for those looking for an effective alternative to retinol, he suggests bakuchiol-based serums.
The Bottom Line
Though for some online influencers, beef tallow may seem like an easy sell,, from a dermatological perspective, Sivamani says tallow is “just moisture.”
Ultimately, tallow beauty products are largely produced using unsustainable farming practices, and offer little in terms of proven effectiveness.
Jessica Scott-Reid wrote this article for Sentient.
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