DELEVAN, Wis. -- Several months into the pandemic, a number of small Wisconsin farms continue to shift their customer focus to keep from shutting down. Instead of restaurants and larger retailers, some operations primarily are selling their products directly to consumers.
As the pandemic unfolded and shutdowns kept people at home, smaller farms lost outlets to distribute food they'd grown. Since then, many producers have decided to boost their online presence and hit the road making home deliveries.
In southern Wisconsin, Janet Gamble runs Turtle Creek Gardens, which specializes in organic vegetables. During the shutdown, she said they tried different forms of marketing, which came with some risks.
"We got a better marketing strategy on Facebook than we did some Google ads, those aren't necessarily very cheap," Gamble said.
But she said that investment was worthwhile, because they saw an uptick in demand for their retail service with restaurant and grocery store orders taking a hit. However, not all small producers were in a position to make the switch, because they didn't have a store with specialty items or a website ready for online transactions.
That's where producers such as Jeremy Lynch stepped in. He and his wife own a farm and catering business in Sauk County that already had an online presence. The couple raises hogs, but they're also taking in products from other farmers in the area who don't have anywhere to sell right now.
Lynch said catering weddings was a key source of revenue, but now they're ramping up online orders and safe deliveries with all these products.
"People order online with our store, and then we deliver. They just put a cooler on their porch, and we put the product in the cooler - so it's completely touchless," Lynch said.
With Wisconsin still seeing a COVID-19 surge, Lynch said he anticipates direct marketing to be a key focus for smaller farms for the foreseeable future.
"A pretty fair slice of the sector has depended on the restaurant sales," he said. "We've seen some restaurants closing, I anticipate more restaurants closing over the winter here."
While his operation has had to reduce expenses and cut employee hours, Lynch said this approach has helped keep them from having to lay off workers during the public health crisis. But he said he still worries that some farmers, who don't have the tools to make the transition, will not survive.
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Advocates for a fair, sustainable, and healthy food system have released a report showing that nearly all of the corn seed in Iowa is controlled by just four companies.
Economists say concentrations that large can lead to market manipulation.
Farm Action's report shows nearly 90% of the corn seed in Iowa is controlled by Corteva and Bayer. AgReliant and Syngenta control the rest.
Farm Action President Angela Huffman said that kind of control and concentration is happening all the way from seeds to the consumer's plate, and she warns it makes market conditions ripe for abuse.
"This is the scenario in almost every sector of the food supply chain," said Huffman. "Seeds, fertilizer, farm equipment - beef, pork, and poultry processing - and retail groceries. Every one of those sectors I just named has upwards of 60%, to even 85%, of those markets controlled by four corporations."
The same type of consolidation is happening in ag operations where livestock are raised in large confinements - and manure runoff is known to damage the air, ground, and surface water in rural Iowa.
Operators have said they're always looking for more efficient and environmentally friendly ways to raise livestock.
Huffman argued that monopolies like this can lead to collusion, price fixing, and other types of market manipulation.
She and other advocates have called on lawmakers in Congress to address the issue in the pending Farm Bill.
"We're calling on the government to reclaim its role as an enforcer of our antitrust laws, and break up these dominant corporations," said Huffman, "in order to free our economy to start working for the people who are producing, processing and distributing our food."
The current Farm Bill, which was supposed to expire in September of last year, has been extended - but debate still hasn't started on a new version.
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A federal bill could spell trouble for New York farmers.
The Ending Agricultural Trade Suppression Act would remove local and state governments' power to enact policies affecting farms. Studies show it could spell the end for more than 1,000 public health, safety and welfare laws.
Michael Chameides, a member of the Columbia County Board of Supervisors, said farmers do not want such vital farm laws terminated.
"There's a real urgency to pass a robust Farm Bill that really does support rural communities and support farmers and support people all around the country to get healthy, safe and affordable food," Chameides contended. "There's lots of reasons for Congress to take action to support farmers and the EATS Act is not it."
The measure began as a way to counter the animal welfare laws enacted through California's Proposition 12. The National Pork Producers Council and the American Farm Bureau Federation appealed to the U.S. Supreme Court about Proposition 12. After the court rejected it, several Republican governors sent a letter to Congressional lawmakers urging the reintroduction of the act.
Recently, the Columbia County Board of Supervisors unanimously approved a resolution opposing the EATS Act.
Some lawmakers want to put elements of the act into the Farm Bill. But Chameides noted what farmers really need is access to land, loans and support from the federal government through the Farm Bill. He argued the bill's effects on New York would mean repealing laws ranging from controlling invasive species to animal welfare.
"Rolling those laws back you might see the spread of either diseases or invasive species which are going to have both public health impacts," Chameides pointed out. "But also that it could impact the viability of certain kinds of farming."
Chameides noted regional response laws are important because of the rapid and often unpredictable nature of certain invasive species and the spread of disease. He added passing the act could upend states' rights.
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The growing season is winding down in New Mexico and experts want to make sure the people preserving green chile for the colder months are doing it right.
Amber Benson, Bernalillo County extension agent, said four food preservation techniques will be highlighted during online training workshops next month for the native New Mexico chile. They include drying, freezing, freeze-drying and pressure-cooking. She noted the presentations are free and participants may attend one or all.
"There's an increasing interest in home food preservation, with the cost of food, and during COVID we learned that our food supply chain obviously had some weak points," Benson recounted. "It's just a really great way for people to empower themselves over their own food."
She explained freeze-drying dehydrates food by freezing it and is different from older methods of food preservation. New Mexico State University will hold online training workshops on four Tuesday mornings in October. Capacity is limited to 50 people per session and advance registration is required.
Benson noted green chile can refer both to a plant and a prepared dish, which can vary in consistency from a thick, pork-laden stew to salsa. The series of classes on green chile preservation is the first of its kind, with extension agents in five different counties participating.
"Particularly in New Mexico, we're buying roasted green chile most of the time," Benson observed. "People need to know, 'Oh, do we take the tops off? Do we keep the seeds in? Will it get hotter over time?' People have tons of questions about freezing and drying, so we'll definitely cover both of those."
She added several extension offices across the state have freeze dryers available for the public to use. Last year, New Mexico lawmakers and the governor attracted loads of national attention for approving legislation that declared the smell of roasting green chile the state's aroma, the first state in the nation to adopt an official aroma.
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